New Construction Smart Home Pre-Wire Guide: What to Ask Your Builder

1. Why Pre-Wiring Matters

When you build a new home, there is a brief window during construction when every wall is open, every ceiling is accessible, and running cables costs almost nothing compared to what it will cost later. That window closes the moment drywall goes up.

Pre-wiring means installing low-voltage cables (ethernet, speaker wire, camera cables) and conduit while the framing is exposed. An electrician or low-voltage contractor can run cables through open stud bays in minutes. After drywall, the same cable run requires cutting access holes, fishing cables through insulation, patching drywall, and repainting. What costs $50-$100 per cable run during construction costs $300-$600 per run in a finished home.

The most important thing to understand is that pre-wiring is not about buying smart home devices right now. It is about installing the pathways so that any device you want, today or ten years from today, can be connected without tearing into your walls. The cables you run during construction support technologies that do not exist yet. Cat6A ethernet, for example, supports 10-gigabit speeds, which is far beyond what most homes need today but will likely be standard within a decade.

If you are building a new home and skip pre-wiring, you are making a permanent decision to either pay dramatically more later or live without wired infrastructure forever. There is no "I'll do it next year" option that makes financial sense.

2. Pre-Wire vs Retrofit: The Cost Difference

The numbers make the case clearly. Here is a realistic comparison of what each category of infrastructure costs during construction versus after the home is finished.

3. Room-by-Room Pre-Wire Checklist

Use this checklist when planning your pre-wire with your builder or low-voltage contractor. Each room type has specific requirements based on how the space will be used.

Every Room (Baseline)

• 2x Cat6A ethernet drops at desk height (wall plate with dual keystones)
• Smart switch-compatible wiring with neutral wire in every switch box

Living Room / Family Room

• 4x Cat6A drops (2 behind TV location, 1 each on opposite walls for flexibility)
• Ceiling speaker pre-wire (2-4 locations for surround or stereo pair)
• HDMI conduit from TV wall to equipment location (1.5-inch smurf tube minimum)
• Motorized shade wiring at each window header (14/2 low-voltage, if planning automated window treatments)
• Consider a ceiling-mount projector drop with HDMI conduit and power if the room may serve as a theater

Kitchen

• 2x Cat6A drops (one at counter height for a tablet or display, one at appliance area)
• 1x ceiling speaker pre-wire (mono, centered over main work area)
• Under-cabinet lighting power run (for smart LED strips controlled via Zigbee or WiFi)
• Consider a Cat6A drop behind the refrigerator location for smart fridge connectivity

Master Bedroom

• 2x Cat6A drops (one each side of bed for nightstands)
• 2x ceiling speaker pre-wire (stereo pair, positioned for the bed listening area)
• Motorized shade wiring at window headers (blackout shades are a top automation request)
• Consider a Cat6A drop behind the TV mounting location if the bedroom will have a screen

Home Office

• 4x Cat6A drops (heavy network use: workstation, monitor, printer, VoIP phone)
• Dedicated 20A electrical circuit (for UPS, monitors, and equipment, separate from general room circuit)
• Consider a ceiling-mount access point location (Cat6A drop centered in ceiling)
• Speaker pre-wire (1-2 locations for background audio or conference calls)

Exterior

• Cat6A to 4-6 camera mount locations (front door, garage, back corners, side gates)
• Cat6A to front door area (for PoE video doorbell such as Reolink, UniFi, or Amcrest)
• Cat6A to rear patio or porch ceiling (for outdoor WiFi access point)
• Speaker wire to patio or covered outdoor area (for outdoor audio zones)
• Weatherproof junction boxes at all exterior cable termination points (rated NEMA 3R or better)
• Consider Cat6A to detached structures (garage, shop, barn) via conduit or direct burial rated cable

Garage

• 2x Cat6A drops (workbench area and general use)
• Cat6A to garage door opener location (for smart garage controller such as Ratgdo or Meross)
• Consider running a 50A, 240V circuit for future EV charger (not low-voltage, but critical to plan during construction)
• Cat6A to a ceiling-mount location for a garage camera or access point

Hallways and Stairways

• Motion sensor locations at ceiling or high-wall mount points (pre-wire with Cat6A if using PoE sensors, or plan for Zigbee battery sensors that need no wiring)
• Smart switch wiring at all multi-way switch locations (neutral wires are critical for three-way and four-way switch configurations)
• Consider a hallway ceiling speaker for whole-home announcement coverage

4. The Network Closet

Every cable you run through your home needs to terminate somewhere. That somewhere is your network closet, also called a structured wiring panel or media closet. This is the brain of your home's wired infrastructure, and planning it during construction saves you headaches later.

Location

Choose a central, interior location on the main floor. A hallway closet, utility room, or dedicated small closet works well. Avoid the garage in Oklahoma: summer temperatures regularly exceed 130 degrees F in unconditioned garages, which degrades network equipment and shortens its lifespan. The network closet should be climate-controlled, meaning it is within the conditioned envelope of your home.

Minimum Requirements

• Size: At least 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep. Larger is better. A full 4-foot closet section allows for a small wall-mount rack.
• Power: Two dedicated 20A circuits (one for network equipment, one for UPS and future expansion)
• Ventilation: Active ventilation or at least passive airflow. Network equipment generates heat. A small exhaust fan or vented door prevents overheating.
• Plywood backboard: 3/4-inch plywood mounted on the wall provides a surface for mounting patch panels, switches, shelves, and equipment brackets
• Lighting: Overhead light with a switch (you will be working in this closet periodically)

What Goes Here

All home-run cables terminate at a patch panel in this closet. Your router, network switch, PoE switch (for cameras and access points), Home Assistant hub, UPS battery backup, and any other networking equipment lives here. A well-organized network closet with labeled patch panel ports makes troubleshooting and future expansion easy.

Conduit Runs

Have your builder install at least two 1-inch conduit runs: one from the attic to the network closet, and one from the network closet to the exterior where your internet service enters the home. These conduits let you pull new cables in the future without opening walls. At under $200, it is hard to beat the value.

For a more detailed look at network closet design and equipment selection, see our Builder's Guide to Smart Home Construction and Home Network Guide.

5. What to Ask Your Builder

Most production builders offer basic smart home packages, but these often include only a WiFi thermostat and a video doorbell. If you want real infrastructure, you need to ask the right questions early. Bring this list to your pre-construction meeting and get clear answers.

The 8 Questions

1. "Will every switch box have a neutral wire?"

   Modern electrical code (NEC 2020+) requires neutral wires in most switch boxes, but some builders still pull permits under older codes or skip neutrals in certain locations. Smart switches from Lutron Caseta, Inovelli, and Zooz all require or strongly benefit from neutral wires. Verify this is happening in every switch location, not just some.

2. "Where will the structured wiring panel be located?"

   If your builder has not planned for one, this is a red flag. You need a dedicated location for all low-voltage cable terminations. Push for an interior, conditioned closet, not the garage or an exterior wall.

3. "Can I get Cat6A ethernet to every room, not just Cat5e?"

   Cat5e supports gigabit speeds. Cat6A supports 10-gigabit speeds and provides better shielding against interference. The cable cost difference is roughly $0.15-$0.20 per foot, which amounts to a few hundred dollars over a whole home. The performance difference will matter within the next 5-10 years as devices, streaming, and home networking evolve.

4. "Will you run conduit from the attic to the network closet?"

   Conduit is a plastic or metal tube that provides a pathway for future cable pulls. Even if you do not know exactly what cables you will need in five years, conduit means you can add them without opening walls. This costs under $200 during construction and is nearly impossible to add later.

5. "Can I specify exact camera mount locations before framing?"

   You want to choose where cameras go, not your builder. Camera placement depends on your property layout, driveway orientation, entry points, and sight lines. Provide your builder with a marked-up floor plan showing each camera location, the cable path, and the type of mounting (soffit, wall, or eave).

6. "Is there a dedicated electrical circuit for network equipment?"

   Network equipment (router, switch, PoE switch, NVR, hub) should not share a circuit with general outlets. A dedicated 20A circuit with a UPS ensures your network stays online during brief power flickers and gives you clean, reliable power for sensitive electronics.

7. "Can I have a smart home consultant visit the site before rough-in inspection?"

   A one-time site visit from a smart home professional during the framing stage can catch issues the builder may miss: missing cable runs, incorrect placement, insufficient conduit, and opportunities to add infrastructure while the walls are still open. This visit typically costs $150-$300 and can save thousands in avoided retrofitting.

8. "Will low-voltage work be inspected before drywall closes?"

   This is your last chance to verify that every cable is run correctly, terminated properly, and documented. Insist on a pre-drywall walkthrough specifically for low-voltage wiring. Photograph every cable run for your records. Once drywall goes up, you cannot see what is behind it.

6. Timeline: When Each Step Happens

Smart home pre-wiring follows the construction timeline. Each phase has a specific window, and missing it means either paying significantly more or losing the opportunity entirely. Here is when each step happens relative to your build schedule.

Pre-Construction (Before Permit)

This is the planning phase. Hire a smart home consultant, finalize your wiring plan, and communicate requirements to your builder and electrician. Create a marked-up floor plan showing every cable run, camera location, speaker position, and network closet detail. The more specific your plan, the fewer problems you will run into during construction.

Rough-In (After Framing, Before Drywall)

This is the critical window. All low-voltage cable runs happen now: ethernet to every room, camera cables to exterior mount points, speaker wire to ceiling locations, conduit from attic to network closet. Your low-voltage contractor works alongside the electrician during this phase. Typical rough-in for a 2,500 sq ft home takes 1-2 days.

Pre-Drywall Inspection

Before drywall goes up, walk every room and verify that all cables are run to the correct locations. Test continuity on ethernet runs. Photograph every cable path, junction box, and termination point. Label both ends of every cable. You will be glad you have these records. Once drywall covers the framing, you are relying entirely on them.

Trim-Out (After Drywall and Paint)

After drywall is finished and painted, the trim-out phase installs the visible hardware: ethernet wall plates with keystones, patch panel terminations in the network closet, camera mounting brackets, and speaker grilles. This is also when your electrician installs smart switches and dimmers in the switch boxes that were wired with neutrals during rough-in.

Final Commissioning

After trim-out, your smart home integrator installs and configures all active equipment: router, switch, access points, cameras, Home Assistant hub, and any smart devices. Automations are programmed, everything is tested, and the system is handed over to you with documentation.

7. Budget Tiers

Not every new build needs a premium smart home pre-wire. Choose the tier that matches your budget and priorities. Remember: even the Essential tier dramatically outperforms trying to retrofit later.

Essential ($2,000-$4,000)

The absolute minimum for a smart-ready home. This tier focuses on the infrastructure that is most expensive or impossible to add after construction.

• Cat6A ethernet to every room (2 drops per room, 10-14 rooms)
• Neutral wires in every switch box (verify with electrician)
• Camera pre-wire to 4 exterior locations (front door, garage, 2 rear corners)
• Basic network closet with plywood backboard, 1 dedicated circuit, and patch panel
• Conduit runs from attic to network closet and to exterior ISP entry point
• Cat6A to front door for PoE video doorbell

This tier gives you wired internet in every room, cameras at the most critical points, and the conduit pathways to expand later. It covers 80% of what most homeowners need and costs a fraction of what retrofitting even the basics would require.

Enhanced ($5,000-$8,000)

Everything in Essential, plus comfort and entertainment infrastructure.

• All Essential tier items
• Speaker pre-wire in 4 rooms (living room, kitchen, master bedroom, patio)
• Additional camera locations (6 total: add side gates and driveway)
• 4x Cat6A drops in home office (dedicated workspace wiring)
• HDMI conduit from living room TV wall to equipment location
• Motorized shade wiring in living room and master bedroom
• Ceiling-mount access point drops in 2-3 locations
• Expanded network closet with 2 dedicated circuits, ventilation, and UPS-ready power

This tier supports multi-room audio, comprehensive camera coverage, and a proper home office setup. It is the sweet spot for homeowners who know they want a smart home but do not need to wire every possible location.

Premium ($8,000-$15,000)

The full treatment. Every room fully wired, every option covered.

• All Enhanced tier items
• Whole-home speaker coverage (every room including bathrooms and hallways)
• 4x Cat6A drops in every room (not just 2)
• Distributed AV pre-wire (HDMI conduit or HDBaseT runs to multiple rooms)
• Dedicated home theater pre-wire (7.2.4 Atmos speaker layout with in-ceiling and in-wall positions)
• Outdoor speaker and access point wiring (full yard coverage)
• Motorized shade wiring at every window
• Cat6A to all outbuildings (detached garage, shop, pool house)
• EV charger circuit (50A, 240V) in garage
• Full-size network closet or wall-mount rack with dedicated ventilation
• 8+ camera locations with PoE home runs

This tier is for homeowners building their forever home and wanting zero limitations on future smart home capabilities. The added cost over Enhanced is small compared to what retrofitting any of these items would cost later.